Kyoto is the former imperial capital city of Japan, and is famous for this reason, and also for its many iconic temples. One of the most famous of these temples is the Kiyomizu-dera Temple in eastern Kyoto.
Both Kyoto and Osaka are part of the Kansai region of Japan, and Kansai airport serves both cities.
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| Kiyomizu-dera Temple |
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| View of downtown Kyoto from the top of Kiyomizu-dera temple |
On the right hand side is the 3-storey pagoda at the entrance of the temple complex.
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| View of the stilts holding up the temple |
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| The walkway up (and down) has many small shops and even more girls dressed in kimono. |
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| The view of the 3-storey pagoda from our climb |
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| Was told that some of the kimono clad ladies may not be so young nor local. They are tourists like us. |
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| The first main gateway pavilion. Mommy took this shot of the boys. |
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| Break at a cafe on the way down. They only serve variations of green tea. |
The other "must see" thing to do in Kyoto is the famous green bamboo forest in Arashiyama.
Arashiyama bamboo forest
On the train back from Kameoka to Kyoto, we stopped to visit and marvel at the famous bamboo forest in Arashiyama (嵐山)....
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| In the bamboo forest |
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| Nonomiya Shrine of the Shrine of the Country |
The Nonomiya Shrine is in the middle of the Arashiyama bamboo forest. The Nonomiya Shrine was featured in the 11th-century ancient Tale of Genji. It's a love story that's 1,000 years old. In accordance with tradition, successive Japanese Imperial princesses staying the the Nonomiya Shrine for a year or more to purity themselves before becoming representatives of the Imperial family at the Ise Shrine in Mie prefecture. There is an annual procession that recreate a scene for that period, starting from the shrine and continuing as far as the nearby Togetsu-kyo Bridge. (Courtesy of Google Wilkepedia).
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| Trishaw man |
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| The road entrance to the walkway into the Arashiyama bamboo forest |
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| Trishaw transport |
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| Kimono clad holiday makers |
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| Another trishaw puller |
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| 3 young kimono ladies |
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| Togetsu-kyo Bridge at Arashiyama |
Togetsu means "Moon Crossing". The name comes from an Emperor in the 12th Century when sailing on the Katsura river, observed that the "moon appears to be crossing the river".
Although the bridge appears to be wooden, it is actually supported by reinforced concrete beams and structures. The current bridge was built in 1934.
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| Togetsu-kyo Bridge crosses the Katsura River |
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| Tourists on the Togetsu-kyo Bridge |
On the banks of the Katsura River
After Arashimaya, we continue on the train into Kyoto, and checked into the Hotel New Hankyo Kyoto, conveniently located next to the JR Isetan Building where the train station is located below it.
Dinner at Tempura Yoshigawa, Kyoto
The restaurant is at Tominokoji-dori Oike Sagura Nakagyo-ku Kyoto. It's 3 stops from our Hotel New Hankyu, and about 8 min walk from the train station. This is the Karasuma Line from Kyoto station to Karasuma Oike station.
Tempura Yoshigawa serves a superb ryokan kaiseki dinner. It was so popular, we could only get a 5.30pm seating.. The restaurant is very traditional and has counter seats for 12 pax.
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| Main entrance of restaurant |
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| Chef doing his inventory and other preparations |
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| Ordering the sake. |
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| Chef preparing batter. |
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| Sea eel, mackeral sushi with beans and ginger flower. |
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| Another view of the eel and mackeral sushi. |
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| Sashimi tuna and sea bream. |
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| Second look at the sashimi. |
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| Tempura prawns with their crispy heads, a crunchy delicacy. |
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| Prawn tempura with turnip, salt with lemon and combu seaweed and fish stock (dashi) |
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| The turnip and salt |
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| Gingko nuts |
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| Chestnuts |
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| Eggplant |
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| White fish |
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| Baby corn |
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| Mushrooms |
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| Shiro-kisu fish |
The shiro-kisu fish is indeed a fine delicacy, and one that we were privileged to have savoured.
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| Dashi with soryu, our dip for the tempura |
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| Chilled crab meat with daikon |
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| Lotus roots |
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| Sweet potatoes |
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| Saba fish |
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| Prawn |
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Our second sake bottle.
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| Rice and shrimp tempura pancake |
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| Rice and shrimp tempura pancake with dashi and green tea |
We think this is called Tencha - the rice with the soup.
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| After the main dinner, we moved to the reception area, for dessert |
There were second round guests after us, so we had to move to the reception area for desserts. We met 2 American couples from the east coast, having beers, and waiting for their seats at the table.
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| Our dessert is served. |
The tempura kaiseki dinner for 5 pax, plus 2 bottles of sake and a beer, came up to about SGD1k. A good find for fine dining!
Lunch at Wakuden, Kyoto
Wakuden is located on the 11th floor of the JR Isetan building next to our Hotel New Hankyo. Wakuden was recommended to us by some wine aficionado friends. We could only booked the 11am table seating, and had a private room. But the downside was that it was an early lunch slot and only provides time to take the short menu...the "Suoh".
Osaka (大阪市)
Osaka is the gateway to Kyoto, and was our first stop and we spent two nights here before moving on the Kyoto - hence titled "Kyoto via Osaka". Unlike Kyoto which is our first visit, we had been to Osaka previously.
Osaka is a metropolitan city only second in size to Tokyo. Its the hub of commerce and industrial powerhouses of Japan.
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| Shinsaibashi-suji, a covered shopping street |
Shinsaibashi is the main and largest shopping area in Osaka. Its located between Namba and Umeda. There are not only great shopping - Daimaru dept store has a huge presence here - there are also great choice of eating places.
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| The iconic crab signature of Shinsaibashi |
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| No Osaka visit is complete without a photo with the famous Glico 'running-man'. |
Street vendors
Skewers fried beef, pork, squid, shrimp, crabs etc.
Kahala restaurant, Osaka
Kahala is described as an eclectic restaurant located at 2F Kishimoto Building, 1 Chome-9-2 Sonezakishinchi, Kita Ward, Osaka. The area has very active after office hours night life with lots of eating and entertainment places.
The restaurant sits maximum of 8 pax, and tonight there were only two other diners beside our family of 5 pax. The restaurant is manned by a 5 men team including Chef Mori san. Chef Yoshifumi Mori san has 2 Michellin stars.
Some of the chef's most innovative creations are the curry bread or "curry puff" and the flavoured coffee oil, and handmade soba with karasumi.....all of which we had the privilege of savoring tonight!!
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| Expectant diners at the counter |
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| White wine served to prepare out palate |
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| Meticulous detail even for the tooth picks |
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| The house sakes to accompany our food |
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| Anago (salt-water eels) with shiitake mushrooms |
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| Chef Mori san |
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| Kosudo san looked after us all through the dinner |
Chef Mori san and his assistant Kodudo san serving us the mozzarella with giner, unagi eel with mustard seed, monk fish with chilli oil, Japanese snail, Osaka beef, yam with dry scallop.
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| The complete set described above as laid out for our visual feast (and of course tasting pleasure as well). The squares at bottom is actually sliced dried radish and totally edible. |
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| " Curry puff " |
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| Inside the bread is curry - tasting very much like the Indian spices curry I have enjoyed back in Singapore |
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| Coffee rice oil to wash down the "curry puff" |
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| Abalone green rice risotto with truffle oil and mushrooms |
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| The abalone "revealed" |
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| Fish roe bottarga or Japanese karasumi, with handmade cold soba |
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| Kahala salt flakes (half sea salt and half rice powder), grilled sharks fin and radish and leek |
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| Chef advised us how to eat this is with lots of Kahala salt flakes on top |
Because Kahala salt flaes is half rice and half sea salt, it is not very salty and quite flavorful to have it spread generously over the beef.
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| That's how the salt should be spread. |
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| Dried seaweed soup with caciovallo cheese. |
The caciovallo cheese is what we have savored in France applied melted over fire..
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| Kosudo san showing us the cheese |
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| The caciocavalo cheese in the soup. |
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| Portioning the fried garlic pieces onto our plates |
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| Condiments to serve with the 3 beef courses. |
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| Our 3 course beef set awaiting for Chef Mori san's expert touch! |
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| Chef Mori San lightly searing the beef in front of us |
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| 1st beef course.. |
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| 1st course beef to be wrapped with fried garlic and wasabi |
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| 2nd course of beef being seared |
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| 3rd course beef to accompanied with garlic and wasabi also, heaped with Kahala salt. |
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| Rice with egg yolk and vegetables. |
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| The rice served with green tea |
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| The egg yolk soaked at the bottom...yummy! |
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| 1st dessert - Grapes of Japanese Merlot and Chardonay and fig fruit. |
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| 2nd dessert - coffee oil, caramel and special pumpkin (grows above ground) |
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| Tea prepared in Masala tea style, without the Masala. |
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| 3rd dessert - apple with chocolate drip. Fennel seeds for leaving a pleasant after dinner taste. |
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| Chef Morii san and his able assistant Kosuda san. |
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| Our chef celebrated in a cover at entrance. |
We lost count but there must have been about 14 courses served to us tonight. SGD2k is good value for 5 pax dinner plus 2 sake servings, in a 2 Michellin-Star chef restaurant.
Chef Mori san presented a very refreshing and innovative menu, definitely one to be fondly remembered. The only downside I recall was because we were early, having to stand in the street corner below waiting for the exact time of our dinner booking.
Apparently there are several other Michellin star studded restaurants here and they seemed to congregate in this vicinity.
Sushi Matsu in Shinsaibashi
The restaurant is at 1F Higashi Shinsaibashi, 1 Chome 15-11, Chuo Ward, Osaka.
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| The front shop fascade of Sushi Matsu |
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| The English-speaking waiter was very helpful |
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| Counter seating |
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| English menu was given to us so that we can point and order |
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| This was the first 5 pieces of the 10 piece sushi we ordered |
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| Unagi |
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| The second instalment of our 10 piece set |
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| Salmon roe and sea urchin |
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| Fresh oysters |
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| Green tea served in a very nice sushi-design cup |
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| Salad |
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| Miso soup |
Sushi Matsu had a noisy corporate group seated at the counter (it was about 7.30pm). The atmosphere was informal and the food earthy and easy to appreciate. Service was very good with our friendly English-speaking waiter. The bill was < SGD300, which is much cheaper than home prices for this kind of fare.
Hasegawa Sushi in Shinsaibashi
Hasegawa Sushi was our first choice for dinner on first night, and we gingerly walked through Shinsaibashi to the restaurant without reservation. We were disappointed because we couldn't get in..
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| Street sign for Hasegawa Sushi |
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| The captain checked and re-checked, but the next table was at one hour away! |
Hasegawa was highly recommended, and judging from the crowds inside, it must be true. Sadly for us, we have to try another day..!
Since we were still game for sushi, we walked down the street and presented ourselves at Sushi Matsu, which was featured above.
Lunch at Mi-myu, Hotel Nikko Osaka (level B2)
This was lunch upon our arrival from Kansai airport to Hotel Nikko in Osaka, so it was a simple lunch for hungry tummies..
Our lunch bill for 3 pax < SGD80. Mi-myu is a restaurant chain. We saw another Mi-myu restaurant in JR Isetan Kyoto.
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| Pubbing in Shinsaibashi |
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| On the first night 3 boys cooled their heels in a Shinsaibashi pub while the last 2 members of family enjoyed their ramen dinner next door. |
We spent 2 nights in Osaka, then moved on to Kameoka to stay at the very private and exclusive Yunohana Sensui Resort, near Kyoto. Kameoka is 24-km from Kyoto.
Dinner at Yunohana
Suisen Resort, Kameoka city, Kyoto
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| Suisen's restaurant |
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| The menu for tonight |
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| Ordering the sake |
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| Sake harmony cup |
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| Sake cup |
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| Marinated mackeral |
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| Fish tofu soup |
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| Ah....the fish |
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| Snapper, tuna and sardines sashimi with sesame oil and wasabi |
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| Snapper, tuna and sardines sushi, with pumpkin cube, dipped in sesami oil and wasabi light soya sauce |
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| Salmon roe with rice |
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| Seafood platter - fried Ayu fish, eggplant with miso, promagranate with tofu, fried lotus roots and cheese |
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| Fried Ayu fish |
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| Promanranate with tofu |
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| Eggplant with miso |
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| Eel tempura.... |
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| .....with miso dipping sauce |
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| Chicken broth with rice etc |
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| Pickled vegetables |
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| ......with rice and its condiments |
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| Tiramisu ice cream |
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| Coffee |
This was a kaiseki dinner comprising mainly of local grown produce. As Kameoka is a large agricultural community, the ingredients were fresh and well blended together to create a great culinary experience. Breakfast at Yunohana Sensui resort
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| Yoghurt (top left corner), seaweed with vinegar, fried salmon, tofu, potato salad, anchovies |
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| Mushroom choice of main course |
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| Cod fish choice of main course |
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| Kinki fish choice of main course |
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| Yam done like polanta, tofu etc |
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| Egg omelette in soup |
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| Anchovies |
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| Salmon roe with rice |
The breakfast was served like in Bento style. Most of the culinary delights are in the box, with additional sides like the fish course, rice, miso soup, etc. Very fresh ingredients and light on the palate.
Yunohana Suisen Resort, Kyoto
Yunohana is famous for its hot springs. Legend has it that wounded soldiers would convalesce in the mountain's hot springs to regain their strength and health.
We took 3 trains to get from Osaka to Kameoka for the Suisen onsen. Suisen Resort is like a Ryokan but with a lot more luxury and modern conveniences....exactly how we like it.
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| Welcome drink - green tea and chestnut candy |
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| View from our balcony |
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| This table set area was converted to sleeping area.... |
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| .....for tatamis |
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| Our lounge area |
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| Our in-room onsen |
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| Our room's door entrance |
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| Dressed in yukata |
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| Also in yukata |
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| View from balcony. The dark grey roof at ground is the outdoor onsen |
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| Our room's balcony |
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| Entrance to the onsen on ground floor |
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| Zen garden |
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| Stone steps lead to another private onsen |
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| Japanese red pine tree |
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| Closed up view of the pine needles |
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| The onsen |
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| Lockers |
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| Last look at the onsen that we loved so much! |
The Yunohana Sensui resort is so relaxing, we felt guilty for not spending another night here. The entire experience for 5 pax, including the breakfast and kaiseki dinner, and accomodation (we had their largest suite) in an unparalleled quiet secluded forested hillside, came up to about SGD2,500. Very hard to find combo deal of both relaxation spa, accomodation and two fantastic meals with impeccable service that attends to every detail.
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| The front courtyard of Yunohana Suisen resort |
The hot springs, tranquility and cool, fresh mountain air makes this one of my top unforgettable destinations.
Travelling from Osaka to Kyoto
As mentioned earlier, we took 3 trains from Osaka to Kameoka.
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| On train from Shinsaibashi to Umeda station (Osaka JR station) |
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| Waiting for Kyoto train at Osaka JR station |
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| At Kyoto station, waiting to board the train to Kameoka station |
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| The Sensui Resort bus waiting for us at Kameoka station |
Shopping in Gion, Kyoto
Gion (pronounced
Gee-yon) in Kyoto is a famous low-rise shopping area for paper products, wooden handicrafts, porcelain, sweets, basically all kind of things...
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| Happy shopper |
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| Unhappy entourage |
From the Japan guide, Gion is also famous for its teahouses (ochaya), geisha and maiko entertainment.
Goodbye, Kyoto!
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| Catching the JR train from Kyoto to Kansai airport |
The ride from Kyoto station to Kansai airport station is 1 hr 30 min. The ticket costs JPY2,850 or about SGD40 per person.
Our insights on the restaurants
We were unanimous in voting for Kahala in Osaka as the best restaurant.
Second would be Tempura Yoshigawa in Kyoto.
Wakuden and the kaiseki dinner at Yunohana Suisen would be third, and for different reasons. Wakuden was too commercial and leaves little time to savor their cuisine, and we could not have the menu we wanted (again because of time constraint).
Yunohana Suisen kaiseki dinner was very delightfully pure and light but guess that's typical of relaxing ryokan cuisine. If asked to choose between the two, for a more complete package I would choose Yunohana Suisen Resort anytime.
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